Dice Bag - Free Pattern

Since the new Dungeons & Dragons film has just been released, I thought it would be fun to share this simple dice bag pattern with you D&D players out there. I’ve had a few goes at playing over the years, but never had a chance to get really into the swing of it (I tend to stick to tabletop games). However, my daughter has been playing for years, and has built up an impressive collection of dice, so I thought I’d make her a nice, sturdy bag for them.

It’s a fairly simple design, but to give a bit of visual interest, and hopefully some extra strength, I’ve used front post stitches to make vertical ridges – you can do them at different distances apart, as you choose.

Wider spaced ridges

Narrower spaced ridges

You can make your bag in any colour you like, or use more than one colour – self-striping or multicoloured yarn is the quick and easy way to get a fun effect.

This bag will come out about 15 cm/6” tall, 10 cm/4” in diameter.

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
ss = slip stitch
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)
dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)
fpsc = front post single crochet (US), front post double crochet (UK), see special stitch instructions below.
tog = together
sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together
YOH = yarn over hook
FO = fasten off

General instructions:
Work in rounds unless otherwise stated and do not join rounds unless told to. Use a stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer (ch 2, work 6 sc into 1st ch). If you work the 6 sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight.

Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise indicated.

You will need:
Approximately 40g of any colour yarn, double knitting or worsted weight.
4mm (G/6) hook.
Tapestry needle.

Special stitch instructions:

Fpsc: work sc by putting your hook from right to left around the back of the post of the next stitch on the previous round.

Sc do not have much of a post (the body of a stitch, apart from the 'v' shape of the two loops that you normally put your hook under) so it can be quite hard to do this stitch. Push your hook under the two loops as normal (Fig. 1), then back under the two loops of the next stitch from back to front (Fig. 2 shows with the green mark where to insert your hook from the back, Fig. 3 shows what it looks like when you have done this). YOH, pull yarn through, YOH, pull through both loops on hook. When you work the next stitch remember to start by putting your hook under the second set of two loops that you used previously. It is very easy to mix up which stitch you're working into, so count your stitches frequently to check you haven't made a mistake.

   Fig. 1

   Fig. 2

   Fig. 3


Linked dc (optional): to make the top of the bag where the drawstring goes a bit stronger, you can work round 38 with linked dc. To do this, work the first dc of each pair. Then insert your hook under a strand of yarn that makes up the dc (Fig. 4 shows the strand outlined in black, Fig. 5 shows the hook under the strand) and then into the next st. YOH, pull through yarn, YOH, pull through 2 loops, YOH, pull through 2 loops.

   Fig. 4

   Fig. 5

Bag:

Round 1: ch 2, work 6 sc into 1st ch - 6 st.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around - 12 st.
Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times - 18 st
Round 4: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 6 times - 24 st.
Round 5: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 6 times - 30 st.
Round 6: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st] 6 times - 36 st.
Round 7: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st] 6 times - 42 st.
Round 8: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 st] 6 times - 48 st.
Round 9: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 7 st] 6 times - 54 st.
Round 10: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 st] 6 times - 60 st.
Round 11: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 9 st] 6 times - 66 st.
Round 12: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 10 st] 6 times - 72 st.
-For wider spaced ridges continue here:
Round 13 - 34: (22 rounds) [fpsc, sc in next 5 st] 12 times - 72 st.
Round 35: [fpsc, sc in next 3 st, sc2tog] 12 times - 60 st.
Round 36 - 37: (2 rounds) [fpsc, sc in next 4 st] 12 times - 60 st.
-For narrower spaced ridges continue here:
Round 13 - 34: (22 rounds) [fpsc, sc in next 2 st] 24 times - 72 st.
Round 35: [fpsc, sc2tog, fpsc, sc in next 2 st] 12 times - 60 st.
Round 36 - 37: (2 rounds) [fpsc, sc in next st, fpsc, sc in next 2 st] 12 times - 60 st.
-For all bags, continue here (see above on how to do linked dc if you choose):
Round 38: ss in next st, ch 1, dc in same st, dc in next st, ch 1, skip st, [dc in next 2 st, ch 1, skip st] 19 times - 60 st.
Round 39: starting in first dc, [sc in next 2 st, sc around ch] 20 times – 60 st.
Round 40: sc in each st around - 60 st.
-Ss in next st, FO.
-Weave in ends.

Drawstring:
Chain until you have a length of about 60 cm/24”, then ss in each ch, FO.
Thread through the ch 1 spaces at the top of the bag, then sew the ends together, weaving your yarn a little way along the drawstring to make the join secure.

Fill with dice – or use for anything else you want!

Human Figure Amigurumi Pattern

My latest pattern is a simple human figure, without features but fairly proportional and shaped more realistically than most amigurumi. It is non-gendered and designed to be made in one colour. You can use pipe cleaners or wire in the limbs to make it poseable, so it can be a little friend, hanging around on your shelves and looking after your plants. The pattern includes details to make a base for the figure, so you can pose it like an artist's manikin, or you can turn it into a statue, fixed in one position (a pattern for a sword is also included).

You can also use this pattern as a base and alter the figure as you please, add features, clothes, other accessories, and make it look however you wish. What would you do with it?

You can find the pattern in my Etsy and Ravelry shops.