Wednesday, 21 October 2015

Yeti and Bigfoot Amigurumi Pattern


When I first started designing patterns I often made things using fuzzy mohair type yarn, which I then brushed to make cute, furry creatures, including my Adorable Monsters. Unfortunately, mohair yarns have become a lot less fashionable since then, and you can often only find very lightweight ones, which are no good for making amigurumi at a reasonable size. I did make some Adorable Monsters using normal yarn, but I decided to have another go, and make a little Yeti and Bigfoot.

I still wanted to give their fur a bit of texture, so this time I used Stylecraft Alpaca DK, an acrylic yarn with 20% alpaca in the mix. I find it works well for amigurumi animals as it has a really nice, soft and furry feel to it - I used it for my Alpaca Family and Bracken the Fox.

I made a little Bigfoot, tweaking the pattern slightly to give it a thumb, and I was really happy with the way it looked. I then thought it would be nice to have a larger version, something it would be a bit easier to cuddle. If you want to make a larger version of an amigurumi, there isn't any formula to do it. You just have to work your way through it, with an idea of what you want it to look like, and use trial and error to get it right. And some things don't scale up easily - it took a while to work out how to make the bigger fingers and toes when the popcorn stitches I used were just the right size for the original. I decided to make the big version with proportionally longer legs, but otherwise they're very similar.

 
 
Once I was happy with both the patterns, I made a pair of Yeti to go with the Bigfoots (Bigfeet?). As I was making the little one, I decided to see what the feet would look like sewn to the front, so it's sitting down, and I thought it looked really cute. The standing version of the little Bigfoot is only 6 inches tall, so the little sitting Yeti fits in your hand rather nicely. The bigger versions are 9 inches tall, and definitely just right for a cuddle.



So, if you'd like to make yourself a cute monster family, you can get the pattern from Etsy or Ravelry. I think they're cute on their own, but even cuter together.


Wednesday, 7 October 2015

Salacious Crumb - free pattern


My book, Star Wars Crochet, has just been republished in the US, and so should be available on Amazon and in other book and craft stores. When it was first released, earlier this year, it was also stocked on UK Amazon, so hopefully you'll be able to find it there soon as well.


The book includes the pattern for Jabba the Hutt, but there wasn't room to fit in his little pal, Salacious Crumb, so here it is for free! Salacious Crumb is a mischievous and annoying character, something between a monkey and a lizard, who is essentially Jabba's court jester. This crochet version is pretty small, only 2" tall when sitting, and is made all in one piece, with minimal sewing to complete him.


You will need:
Approx 5g beige yarn, double knitting weight.
Small amounts of black and russet brown yarn.
Stuffing.
Tapestry needle.
3.5mm hook (US E hook).

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
ss = slip stitch
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)
dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)
bob = bobble (see special stitch instructions)
tog = together
sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together
FO = fasten off

Note on yarn:
Double knitting (DK) yarn is standard in the UK, but in other parts of the world, such as the US, worsted weight is more commonly used. Worsted weight is a little thicker than DK but can easily be substituted and the pattern will still be in proportion, although you may find it necessary to use a hook one size larger.

Special stitch instructions:

2 dc bob: YOH (yarn over hook), insert hook into next stitch, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, YOH, insert hook into same stitch, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, YOH, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

3 dc bob: YOH (yarn over hook), insert hook into next stitch, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, *YOH, insert hook into same stitch, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, repeat once from*, YOH, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Salacious Crumb is made in one piece in rounds from the top of the head down. Do not join rounds unless told to, use a stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer (ch 2, work 6 sc into 1st ch). If you work the 6 sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight.

Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise indicated.

Pattern Instructions:
Start using beige yarn.
Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1st ch - 6 st.
Round 2: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times – 9 st.

Round 3: 2 sc in next st, [ear: ss into next st, ch 5, miss ch next to hook, ss into next 2 ch, sc into next 2 ch, ss back into original st], sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st, [ear], 2 sc in next st, sc in next st - 12 st.
Round 4: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 3 times – 15 st.
Round 5: Sc in next 7 st, change to black yarn 3dc bob in next st, change to beige yarn sc in next 7 st - 15 st.
Round 6: 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st, 2dc bob in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next st, 2dc bob in next st, sc in next 3 st - 18 st.
Round 7: Sc2tog 9 times – 9 st.
Round 8: Sc in each st around - 9 st.
Round 9: Sc in next 3 st, [arm: ss into next st, ch 10, 3dc bob into 3rd ch from hook, ss into next 7 ch, ss back into original st], sc in next 3 st, [arm], sc in next st - 9 st.
Round 10: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 3 times – 12 st.
Round 11: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 3 times – 15 st.
Round 12: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st] 3 times – 18 st.
Round 13: Sc in next 4 st, [tail: ss into next st, ch 15, miss ch next to hook, ss into next 14 ch, ss back into original st], sc in next 13 st - 18 st.
Round 14: Sc2tog, sc in next 4 st, sc2tog, sc in next 2 st, [leg: ss into next st, ch 11, miss ch next to hook, sc into next 2 ch, miss next ch, ss into next 7 ch, ss back into original st], sc in next st, sc2tog, sc in next 2 st, [leg], sc in next st - 15 st.

Stuff head and body. Push the bobbles on the face outwards and embroider eyes and mouth using black yarn.

Round 15: [Sc2tog, sc in next 3 st] 3 times – 12 st.
Round 16: Sc2tog 6 times – 6 st.

FO, leaving length of yarn. Sew up hole at bottom then take the yarn through the body to the head and sew a couple of stitches into base of ears to keep them closer to head.

To make the fluffy parts you will sew loops of yarn on the top of the head and around the neck. Thread a length of russet brown yarn onto your needle and take the yarn through the crocheted part, leaving a short length of yarn sticking out. Sew a stitch in the same place. Sew a loop next to this, then sew a stitch in the same place to secure it. Make 3-4 loops on the top of the head and 5-6 loops around the neck, leaving a gap at the front. Cut each loop and trim to length. Take the point of the needle through each strand to separate it and create a fluffy effect.