Friday 7 January 2022

All About The Mandalorian Crochet Kit




My latest book and kit is out now, with twelve characters from The Mandalorian for you to make. In the book you'll find the patterns for:

The Mandalorian himself, or Mando, with the outfit he wears at the start of series 1 (during the two series so far he gradually picks up new armour).



Grogu (Baby Yoda) in his floating pram - full disclosure, despite the photo on the front of the book, the crochet pram does not actually float!



Cara Dune.



Greef Karga
.


Moff Gideon, with the Darksaber.



Kuiil
.

IG-11.

Grogu (Baby Yoda) at a larger scale. The first Grogu is tiny, and roughly in scale with the other characters. This version is larger, about 3" tall, compared to the humans who are generally about 4" tall.



Mudhorn, which is not in scale with the other figures but is still quite large at about 6" long.



Offworld Jawa, which as well as wearing a grey rather than brown robe, has a slightly different hood compared to the Jawa pattern you'll find in Star Wars Even More Crochet.



Bo-Katan Kryze, who comes with the option to make her with or without her helmet.

Ahsoka Tano, who is obviously the older version of the character than the one seen in The Clone Wars cartoons, with two white lightsabers.

There were some interesting challenges in coming up with these designs. It seemed like Mando would be just a variation on Boba Fett, but the fact that his helmet is all silver made it much harder to define the shape in a small crochet form. I had to try quite a few variations before I was satisfied, and it must be said that this is not an easy pattern for a beginner to amigurumi. It's included as one of the patterns in the kit, which makes sense given that he's the main character in the show, but there are a lot of colour changes and fiddly elements to the pattern. The other pattern in the kit, the smaller Grogu in his pram, is a bit easier, but it was also a challenge to make such a small character and still manage to include enough details to make it work.




I was very happy with Kuill, who was one of my favourite characters. He's a bit smaller than the human characters so I worried that I wouldn't be able to include all the details I needed to make him work, but he came out just how I wanted the first time I made him. I really wasn't sure if IG-11 would work in this format at all - it's a tall, thin, spindly robot, and these are cute, slightly chubby amigurumi versions of characters - but in the end I think this version is fun, recognisable but cute.




I started work on this in the early autumn of 2020, before series 2 of The Mandalorian had been released, so I wasn't told about all the characters I'd have to make until they'd appeared in the show. I was very happy when Ahsoka and Bo-Katan appeared, they're both colourful and interesting to look at, so they make great amigurumi. I thought I had a head start on Ahsoka since I'd already made the young version we first see at the beginning of The Clone Wars, but it was surprising how many details had to be altered, and since her head piece is so complicated it took a while to work out all the changes. With Bo-Katan I thought I knew how to make her helmet, since I'd already done Mando's, but the shape and all the details are quite different, so it took a while to get it just right. I thought it would be fun to see her without her helmet too, so I'm glad I asked to include that version too.





I hope that if you get hold of this book that you enjoy making the various characters. To help you find the right colours of yarn to make the characters, I've made a list below of all the yarns I used, and the amounts needed for each figure. I've also noted at the bottom of this post any errors in the book that I've noticed; if you come across any yourself, let me know. I work hard to make sure there aren't any errors, but some always manage to slip through!


Yarn List (approximate amounts):

I live in the UK, so that's where I get all my yarn from. I use double knitting (DK) weight yarn, equivalent to 3:light weight in the US, and 8 ply in Australia/NZ - there's a yarn thickness guide on Ravelry which is very helpful. (By the way, the yarn I used is not the same as the yarn in the kit. That isn't a particular brand, and was sourced by the publisher separately).

If you can't get hold of the yarns listed below, you can at least look at them in online stores such as Wool Warehouse or LoveCrafts, which might help you find equivalents closer to home.

I used mostly Hayfield Bonus DK (HBDK) and Robin DK (RDK). Hayfield is a great yarn for making amigurumi (toys worked in the round) as it's quite sturdy and doesn't get squashed by working tightly, which you have to do when you're crocheting like this. Unfortunately, Robin yarn is no longer available, so I have included some alternatives in Stylecraft Special DK (SSDK). Stylecraft has a great range of colours but is a little lighter in weight so you might find that parts come out a little smaller when you use it.
 
The Mandalorian:
5g light grey yarn - HBDK Light Grey Mix (814).
5g black yarn - HBDK Black (965).
10g dark grey yarn - HBDK Slate Grey (633).
5g mid brown yarn - HBDK Chocolate (947).
5g dark brown yarn - RDK Brown (051), alternative SSDK Dark Brown (1004).
Small amount of yellow yarn - HBDK Sunflower (978).
Small amount of beige yarn - HBDK Walnut (927).
Small amount of light beige yarn - HBDK Oatmeal (964).
Small amount of blue yarn - HBDK Denim (994).
 
Grogu in pram:
5g green yarn - HBDK Grass (825).
10g light beige yarn - HBDK Oatmeal (964).
10g light grey yarn - HBDK Light Grey Mix (814).
 
Cara Dune:
10g pale peach yarn - HBDK Biscuit (963).
10g teal yarn - HBDK Petrol (829), alternative Peacock (560).
5g dark teal yarn - HBDK Teal (691), alternative Royal Teal (558).
5g dark grey yarn - HBDK Slate Grey (633).
10g black yarn - HBDK Black (965).
10g dark brown yarn - RDK Brown (051), alternative SSDK Dark Brown (1004).
Small amount of light grey yarn - HBDK Light Grey Mix (814).
 
Greef Karga:
5g black yarn - HBDK Black (965).
10g light brown yarn - HBDK Walnut (927).
10g mid brown yarn - HBDK Chocolate (947).
10g dark brown yarn - RDK Brown (051), alternative SSDK Dark Brown (1004).
5g golden brown yarn - RDK Honey (129), alternative SSDK Camel (1420).
 
Moff Gideon:
20g black yarn - HBDK Black (965).
5g light brown yarn - HBDK Walnut (927).
5g red yarn - HBDK Soft Red (617).
Small amount of white yarn - HBDK White (961).
Small amount of dark grey yarn - HBDK Slate Grey (633).
 
Kuiil:
5g pale peach yarn - HBDK Biscuit (963).
5g mid brown yarn - HBDK Chocolate (947).
5g dark brown yarn - RDK Brown (051), alternative SSDK Dark Brown (1004).
5g khaki green yarn - HBDK Olive Green (634).
5g light brown yarn - HBDK Walnut (927) or Taupe (601).
Small amount of silver grey yarn - HBDK Light Grey Mix (814).
Small amount of black yarn - HBDK Black (965).
 
IG-11:
15g grey yarn - HBDK Dark Grey Mix (790).
5g black yarn - HBDK Black (965).
Small amount of red yarn - HBDK Signal Red (977).
 
Grogu (larger version):
10g green yarn - HBDK Grass (825).
15g light beige yarn - HBDK Oatmeal (964).
 
Mudhorn:
30g mid brown yarn - HBDK Chocolate (947).
10g dark beige yarn - HBDK Walnut (927).
 
Offworld Jawa:
5g black yarn - HBDK Black (965).
15g dark grey yarn - HBDK Slate Grey (633).
Small amount of dark brown yarn - HBDK Chocolate (947).
 
Bo-Katan Kryze:
10g pale peach yarn - HBDK Biscuit (963).
10g dark grey yarn - HBDK Slate Grey (633).
10g light grey yarn - HBDK Light Grey Mix (814).
10g russet yarn - HBDK Fox (779).
15g turquoise yarn - HBDK Turquoise (998).
5g black yarn - HBDK Black (965).
10g mid brown yarn - HBDK Chocolate (947).
5g white yarn - HBDK White (961).
 
Ahsoka Tano: 
10g russet yarn - HBDK Fox (779).
10g black yarn - HBDK Black (965).
5g mid brown yarn - HBDK Chocolate (947).
10g dark grey yarn - HBDK Slate Grey (633).
10g blue yarn - HBDK Denim (994).
10g white yarn - HBDK White (961).
5g light grey yarn - HBDK Light Grey Mix (814).
Small amount of maroon yarn - HBDK Claret (841).
 
*Errata:
On page 47 in the pattern for IG-11, round 3 should read:
Rnd 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 2 times – 8 st.

On p19 of the pattern for the Mandalorian, the text after round 22 starting "In the following 3 rounds..." should go before round 22.

On p20 of the pattern for the Mandalorian, under the 'Left Shoulder Armor' and the 'Right Shoulder Armor', the second section in brackets on row 1 should be ignored.

On p53 in the pattern for Grogu, 'Cowl Neck of Robe', row 1 should read: 
Row 1: skip ch next to hook, sc in next 25 st, ch 1, turn.
 


57 comments:

LucyRavenscar said...

Let me know if you have any comments about this post.

Betty said...

If I can't find the colors in dk weight, can I use worsted weight (#4)? I have made Yoda and the Storm Trooper from first Stars Wars kit.

LucyRavenscar said...

Yes, you can use worsted weight. The figures will come out a bit bigger, you'll need a bit more yarn, and you'll probably need a slightly larger hook.

Betty said...

Thank you! I will let you know how they turn out.

pequicosas said...

love them all!!!

LucyRavenscar said...

Thank you!

Anonymous said...

Do you have a video on how to do these? Me and my wife have been trying to learn but it’s really confusing please help!!!!

LucyRavenscar said...

I'm afraid I don't have videos showing how to make these characters, that would have to be authorised by the publisher. I do have a blog post about starting to make amigurumi (http://lucyravenscar.blogspot.com/2018/02/making-amigurumi-starting-first-round.html) which might help, otherwise you can contact me on Etsy (https://www.etsy.com/shop/lucyravenscar) if you have any specific questions when you're making the figures.

Unknown said...

i received as a gift the mandalorian crochet kit and i liked. But have difficulty on round 11 of the mandalorian if any correction here. Because the color change do not coincide.

LucyRavenscar said...

What exactly is the problem you're having? The pattern is correct, I made Mando recently as a present so I know there isn't a misprint there.

Anonymous said...

Just purchased the Mando/Child kit! So excited!

LucyRavenscar said...

Have fun with it!

Kim Mo said...

Lucy I need your help please 🙏 I’m making Grogu in the pram. Now Grogu was easy enough but I’m having real issues with the bottom of the pram. Before rounds 5-9 to build the sides, I’m having issues trying to keep the base flat. It’s curling terrible. I’m monitoring the stitch count in each round (actually making my husband read out each direction to ensure it’s correctly followed but I cannot get this right no matter what I do. After doing some research in Oval crocheting, all videos and instructions are all advising that there are too many stitches on each increasing round. Can you clarify this or provide any tips to keep the work flat before building the sides? Thanks in advance, Kim x

LucyRavenscar said...

The base isn't completely flat, it gradually curves upwards, so it doesn't sound like you're doing anything wrong. The sides are not supposed to be at right angle to the base, there should be a gradual curve, so when you do rounds 5-9 any extra curling at the bottom should even out. The only other thing I would suggest is to make sure that you are crocheting quite firmly so that the fabric ends up quite stiff.

Kim Mo said...

Thank you for your comments. The curling I’m experiencing is like a crisp shape (only way I can describe) but I will most definitely keep going and hope it evens out. Thank you for your time x

SozzyB said...

I’ve just bought this book as I have a house full of Star Wars fans. I have never attempted Amigurumi before. What would you suggest I start with in the Mandalorian book? Or should I start on a different book? I’m happy to buy others if you think another Star Wars book would be easier? Thank you!

LucyRavenscar said...

I would say the larger scale Grogu is the most straightforward pattern, but there are quite a few fiddly elements to many of the other patterns. The original Star Wars Crochet book probably has more patterns in it that are better for a beginner. If you want to practice your amigurumi skills a bit, try any of my free patterns, listed on the right on this page, most of them are fairly simple and would be a good place to start, also click on 'Starting the first round of amigurumi' under 'Crafty Links and Tips' for more help.

Anonymous said...

The pattern for IG11 is confusing! Round 3 makes 12 stitches, then rd 4 says 2sc per stitch for 16 stitches.

But...thatnwould make 24

LucyRavenscar said...

Yes, check out the end of this blog post where I'll note any mistakes in the book, you'll see I've given you the correct details for round 3.

Rosanna C said...

Just bought this book, it looks so cute. I’m new to crochet are there any videos to follow along making the yoda and mandalorian that come with the kit?

LucyRavenscar said...

I'm afraid not, but I'm happy to help with any specific questions about the patterns.

Anonymous said...

Hi Lucy, I am in an amigurumi FB group and a post erupted about selling Disney products. I’m just asking here because I figured you would know… (and just to clarify I have zero interest in selling stuff I make, but now I’ve very curious) can anyone sell the amigurumi they make from your patterns or would that be in breach of copyright? Google wasn’t letting me sign in but my name is Sonia (I have commented here previously as a noob)

LucyRavenscar said...

I'm afraid I don't know about all the details of the legalities. I'm happy for people to sell items made from the patterns I sell, but I don't own any of the patterns that are published in books. They all belong to the publisher, so it would be up to them if they let people sell toys made from the patterns.

Anonymous said...

Thank you. I’ll check that out.

Anonymous said...

Hello, I got your book and I am having trouble with the headpiece for Ahsoka. On Rnd 11 do you make the chain then skip and continue in the main headpiece or is the first lekku? I tried a few different ways and I am really confused. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!

LucyRavenscar said...

I hope I managed to answer your question on Etsy messages, but let me know if not.

Anonymous said...

I would love video tutorials. I'm struggling with the Mando one, especially around the shoulders. I can't figure out rounds 15-20.

LucyRavenscar said...

I'm afraid I can't do video tutorials for any patterns in my books, as the patterns belong to the publisher. I'm away from home so I can't help with any specifics right now, but when I'm back I can answer any particular questions you have.

CatUt said...

Any alternate suggestions for the Teal 691 and Petrol 829 for Cara Dune? I can't seem to find those colors anywhere online. My normal sources don't even have them listed as something they sell.

LucyRavenscar said...

Yarn companies do like to change their colours! It looks like Sirdar Hayfield Bonus DK have some new colours that would probably work - Peacock (560) for Teal, and Royal Teal (558) for Dark Teal.

Anonymous said...

Hi Lucy. My name is Labiba and I’m currently working on the Mandalorian. Do you have any tips on how to keep the color changes straight and neat? I’m currently working on the body and I noticed uneven transitions between colors on the back. Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated.

LucyRavenscar said...

When you change from one colour to another there is always a little 'step'. You can minimise it a bit by pulling the yarn of the old colour tight after you've changed to the new colour.

Anonymous said...

Hey! For rnds 5-6 (2 rounds) sc in each st around - 24 on Mando is it: (24 sc - 24 st) x2 or (sc) for 2 rounds, then 24 st once after 2 sc rounds.This format repeats a few times throughout the book so would like to double check!

Thanks!

LucyRavenscar said...

That just means that you work 24 sc in each of round 5 and round 6. There are no increases or decreases - round 4 consists of 24 sc, so when you work round 5 you sc in each stitch, then the same for round 6.

Anonymous said...

Can you do a tutorial on the Mandalorian please

LucyRavenscar said...

I'm not quite what you mean by tutorial. The pattern book contains all the details of how to make the characters. If you have a particular question about a pattern I'm happy to try to help.

Kimberly Davis said...

Thank you for giving the corrections and the list of the yarns you use. I have always loved your patterns!
I missed the release of this book so I just received it. Waiting for yarn to arrive. Starting to learn where to obtain the right yarns! Lol. (At least the ones that are not discontinued.)
The ones in the book....well, you know. ;)

LucyRavenscar said...

Thanks Kimberly, have fun with the patterns!

Anonymous said...

Page 73 - Ahsoka: round 11-14: impossible to understand…

LucyRavenscar said...

Ahsoka's headpiece is certainly a very complicated shape to make. If you haven't already, just try working through the instructions carefully as you make it, then if you get stuck at a particular point you can let me know in more detail and I can try to help.

Anonymous said...

Working on the Mandalorian book for our senior Christmas bazaar. Last year I made all the creatures in both of your Star Wars books. They sold really well. Generally it's OK to sell the things you make from patterns but not sell the patterns. Yoda is always popular.

Anonymous said...

The patterns are ok but it bothers me that you use black eyes for Ahsoka. In every version of Ahsoka, she has the distinction of having bright blue eyes. That has never changed.

LucyRavenscar said...

If you make Ahsoka, you can easily use blue eyes instead of black ones. Most of the characters have simple black eyes no matter what colour they are in real life (or in animation), as it fits the scale of them. It's also easier to source simple black ones for most crafters. The exception is the Jawa, who has amber eyes to give a hint of their normally glowing eyes, if you couldn't get hold of those it would work best to crochet or sew yellow/amber eyes instead.

Anonymous said...

Recently purchased your star wars and mandalorian kits i see above you have the actually yarns you used and how they corallate to the publisher colors and a few misprints for the mandalorian kit looking for something like this for the star wars kit as well

LucyRavenscar said...

Here's the post for the Star Wars patterns: https://lucyravenscar.blogspot.com/2015/12/star-wars-crochet-yarn-used.html

Anonymous said...

Awesome thanks for the quick response! Also hbdk in petrol829 and hbdkin teal 691 are impossible to find any suggestions

LucyRavenscar said...

If you look at the post I've added some alternative suggestions.

Joshua said...

Hello! on page 51, making the Left Ear on larger Grogu #8, the pattern ends on the point furthest from the ear, how would I be able to sew the tip of the ear to the side of his head? And I misreading the instructions? Row 2 builds up to the inside of the ear, but then row 3 ends back at the end of the ear.

LucyRavenscar said...

That's correct. Carry on with the rest of the instructions, at the end of the instructions for the right ear, it explains how to finish them up before you sew them to the head.

Joshua said...

Can you explain the end of the instructions of the right ear in detail? I guess Im just not understanding it based on the wording /:

LucyRavenscar said...

You need to sew the yarn left after you have finished crocheting through the edge of each ear, to stiffen the ears. Do it at least twice for each edge, and make sure you end up with the yarn at the wide side of the ear, to sew it to the head. As you are doing this, sew through the pointy part of the ear so that it looks as neat as possible.

Saddwillis said...

Make sure you read through the comments. There has been other people who have commented on the colors and found suitable matches and posted it here. Please, if you have found any good replacements for discontinued colors. Cause I am looking for them too post here please

Kimberly Davis said...

What ones? I think I have found all the colors, or replacents.

Joshua said...

Hello me again, I have completed a Grogu but I'm not satisfied with how the ears turned out, I'm making a second one and I'm trying my best to understand the pattern and your comment. "sew the yarn left after you have finished crocheting through the edge of each ear" Do I have too sew through the outside of each ear twice? that should be sewing through 30 stitches? And if the ear ends on the outside for the left ear and the inside for the right ear, then wouldn't 2 round sews end at different points for each ear? I think I am misunderstanding what the wording of "EDGE" means. The ears are a teardrop shape with the wider part closest to the head and the pointy part sticking out. What does " As you are doing this, sew through the pointy part of the ear " mean if I already ended sewing with the yarn at the "wide" side of the ear??? Thank you for your patience I'm just not able to visualize the instructions with the wording provided.

https://imgur.com/a/AyI6XoT

LucyRavenscar said...

Hi Joshua, sorry, I must have missed your comment. It's probably a bit late, but here's what to do with the ears. Each ear is roughly a triangle shape. With the left ear you finish crocheting at the narrow point, with the right ear you end up at the top of the short side. With both of them you want to sew the end of yarn through the two long sides to make them stiffer. You also want to sew a stitch or two at the narrow point to make it neater and as pointy as possible. So, with the left ear, do this first then sew along the bottom long side one way, back along the same side to the point, then do the same along the top long side. To get back to the short side to sew that to the head, you'll have to go along the top long side once more. With the right ear you sew through the top long side, neaten the tip, sew through the bottom long side to the short side and then back again, then along the top long side again, until you are back at the short side, ready to sew to the head.

Kaitlin said...

I made Grogu and he turned out amazing. It was so much fun. But I have been stuck on Mando. I can’t get the 2 stitches of black to line up on his helmet. Any tips?

LucyRavenscar said...

The stitches in the black vertical section at the front won't line up perfectly, as you can see from Fig. A on p18, but they will look much neater once you do the grey surface crochet on each side. Every time you do a stitch in the round, it ends up slightly offset to the one you're working into. You can reduce this slanted look when you change colour by pulling the yarn of the old colour firmly.