Mooncake Amigurumi

Earlier this year I asked my brother for ideas for a birthday present for my nephew (he's in his 20s) and he suggested that I could crochet him something. He sent me a photo of Mooncake, a cute little green alien which appears in the animated series Final Space, which I'd never seen. So, of course, I had to check it out (series one is on Netflix) and really enjoyed it. I fell in love with the little alien that flies around in space making funny noises, and who turns out to be much more powerful than his appearance would suggest.

I thought it would be an easy pattern to design, but in fact it took a lot of tweaking to get the shape and proportions right. As with any amigurumi made up mostly of a large shape, it takes a lot of stuffing, much more than you think. You just have to keep adding the stuffing, a bit at a time, until the it really hold its shape.

If you would like to buy the pattern, it's available on Etsy and Ravelry.

Yeti and Bigfoot Amigurumi Pattern

When I first started designing patterns I often made things using fuzzy mohair type yarn, which I then brushed to make cute, furry creatures, including my Adorable Monsters. Unfortunately, mohair yarns have become a lot less fashionable since then, and you can often only find very lightweight ones, which are no good for making amigurumi at a reasonable size. I did make some Adorable Monsters using normal yarn, but I decided to have another go, and make a little Yeti and Bigfoot.

I still wanted to give their fur a bit of texture, so this time I used Stylecraft Alpaca DK, an acrylic yarn with 20% alpaca in the mix. I find it works well for amigurumi animals as it has a really nice, soft and furry feel to it - I used it for my Alpaca Family and Bracken the Fox.

I made a little Bigfoot, tweaking the pattern slightly to give it a thumb, and I was really happy with the way it looked. I then thought it would be nice to have a larger version, something it would be a bit easier to cuddle. If you want to make a larger version of an amigurumi, there isn't any formula to do it. You just have to work your way through it, with an idea of what you want it to look like, and use trial and error to get it right. And some things don't scale up easily - it took a while to work out how to make the bigger fingers and toes when the popcorn stitches I used were just the right size for the original. I decided to make the big version with proportionally longer legs, but otherwise they're very similar.

 

 

Once I was happy with both the patterns, I made a pair of Yeti to go with the Bigfoots (Bigfeet?). As I was making the little one, I decided to see what the feet would look like sewn to the front, so it's sitting down, and I thought it looked really cute. The standing version of the little Bigfoot is only 6 inches tall, so the little sitting Yeti fits in your hand rather nicely. The bigger versions are 9 inches tall, and definitely just right for a cuddle.

So, if you'd like to make yourself a cute monster family, you can get the pattern from Etsy or Ravelry. I think they're cute on their own, but even cuter together.

Cuddly Dragon Amigurumi Pattern

I really do love dragons, and I love to make crochet patterns for them. One of my very first patterns was my Fierce Little Dragon and then I made a larger Dragonet  initially inspired by my love of the dragons and fire lizards of Pern. With my latest pattern I've tried to make dragons that are cuddly rather than fierce or majestic.

 

 

Cuddly they might be, but they still have horns, claws and spikes down their backs, along with a pair of cute little wings. They're fun to make in any colour you like - I found yarns with a bit of a mix of colours, like James C Brett Marble, gave a really nice effect.

The pattern is available on Etsy, Ravelry and Loveknitting - if you make one I'd love to see it!

Little Kissing Mice - free amigurumi pattern

Here’s a pattern to make a pair of sweet little mice that just love to kiss, perfect to make for Valentine's Day. They are made all in one, with no separate parts to sew on, so they are quick and easy to crochet. Make them in any colours you like, you can make them totally in a natural fur colour if you want, or choose any colour for their bodies. They will sit upright on their own, but they like snuggling up to each other even more.

 

Abbreviations:

ch = chain

st = stitch or stitches

ss = slipstitch

sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)

dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)

tog = together

sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together

FLO = work in front loop only

FO = fasten off

Approximate size: 5cm/2" long without tail.

General instructions:

Work in rounds unless otherwise stated and do not join rounds unless told to. Use a stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer to ch 2, and work the appropriate number of sc into 1^st ch. If you work the sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight.

When changing from one colour of yarn to another work the stitch before the change until there are two loops left on the hook. Then use the new colour for the final yarn over hook and pull through.

Stuff as you go along.

Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise indicated.

You will need:

Small amounts of yarn in a natural colour for the head and tail, and any colour for the body, double knitting or worsted weight.

Small amounts of black yarn to embroider eyes.

Small amount of stuffing.

3.5mm (E) hook.

Tapestry needle.

Start with natural colour yarn.

Round 1: Ch 2, work 4 sc into 1^st ch - 4 st.
Round 2: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 2 times - 6 st.

Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 2 times - 8 st.

Round 4: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 2 times - 10 st.

Round 5: Sc in each st around – 10 st.

Round 6: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st] 2 times - 12 st.

Round 7: Sc in next 6 st, [ear, in FLO of next st: ss, ch 2, 5 dc, ch 2, ss], sc in next 3 st, [ear as before], sc in next st – 12 st (counting each ear as one st).

Round 8: Sc in each st around, working into the back loop behind each ear – 12 st.

Change to yarn for body.

Round 9: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times, sc in next 6 st – 15 st.

Round 10: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st] 3 times – 18 st.

Round 11: Sc in each st around – 18 st.

Round 12: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st] 3 times – 21 st.

Round 13 - 15: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around – 21 st.

Round 16: [Sc2tog, sc in next 5 st] 2 times, sc2tog, sc in next 2 st, change to natural colour yarn, [tail: ss in next st, ch 20, miss ch next to hook, ss 19, ss back into original st and change back to body colour yarn], sc in next 2 st – 18 st.

Round 17: Sc2tog 2 times, sc in next 6 st, sc2tog 4 times – 12 st.

Round 18: Sc2tog 6 times – 6 st.

FO, leaving a length of yarn. Finish stuffing and use black yarn to sew eyes. Sew up bottom of mouse neatly.

Bracken the Fox

I love foxes. I don't know what it is, maybe it's their beautiful colouring or something about the confident way they hold themselves, but I'm always really excited when I spot one on a walk. I've had two, possibly young ones, practically run into me as they chased each other across my path, but usually when I see them they just sit nonchalantly a little distance away (usually behind a fence) and stare at me.

I've been meaning to crochet a fox for ages, to be honest I don't know what delayed me, just lots of other ideas that I wanted to try out, but I've finally done it. Meet Bracken the Fox, named after the ferns that turn a lovely russet colour in the autumn. I've made him in two versions, with and without a sweater, and he's about 30cm (12") tall.

I've made a lot of my amigurumi in the past using totally acrylic yarn, but I decided to use yarns with wool and alpaca in to make Bracken, to give him a nicer texture. I mostly used Stylecraft Alpaca, and their newer Alpaca Tweed for the sweater, which is lovely and soft.

The pattern is now available in my Etsy shop and on Ravelry.

Itty Bitty Bat - free amigurumi pattern

Well, Halloween is nearly upon us, so here is a tiny little bat pattern for you to have fun with. It's quick and simple to make and, depending on the yarn you use, will end up about 2” tall, with a wingspan of about 5”. The feet are actually small loops, so your bat can hang upside down from a small stick or length of yarn or cord. The loops are large enough to fit the crochet hook you are using through, so you can use that to pull yarn or cord through. You could make several bats and hang them up on a length of chained yarn as decorations, or just wear one as a cute Halloween necklace! If you want to hang your bat on something thicker, just do more chain stitches when you make the feet in round 13.

Abbreviations:

ch = chain

st = stitch or stitches

ss = slipstitch

sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)

dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)

tog = together

sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together

FLO = work in front loop only

FO = fasten off

General instructions:

Work in rounds unless otherwise stated and do not join rounds unless told to. Use a stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer (ch 2, work 6 sc into 1^st ch). If you work the 6 sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight.

Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise indicated.

You will need:

Small amount of black, purple or light and dark brown yarn, double knitting or worsted weight.

1 Pair of 7.5mm brown safety eyes, or 6mm black safety eyes, or yarn to embroider them.

Small amount of stuffing.

3.5mm (E) hook.

Tapestry needle.

Special stitch instructions:

5 dc pop: popcorn stitch for ears. Work 5 dc into 1 st, take hook out leaving loop, put hook through 1st dc & pull loop through.

Body:

Start at top of head.

Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1^st ch - 6 st.
Round 2: [2 sc in next st, (sc and 5 dc pop in next st), 2 sc in next st] 2 times – 12 st.

Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times - 18 st.

Round 4 - 6: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around – 18 st.

If using safety eyes, fit them now between rounds 4 and 5, four stitches apart.

Round 7: [Sc2tog] 9 times – 9 st.

Round 8: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 3 times – 12 st.

Round 9 - 10: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 12 st.

Round 11: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 3 times – 15 st.

Round 12: Sc in each st around – 15 st.

Round 13: Sc in next 8 st, [foot: ss in next st, ch 4, ss back into same st], sc in next 5 st, [foot: ss in next st, ch 4, ss back into same st] – 15 st (the first ss used to make each foot counts as a stitch, the second one doesn’t).

Round 14: [Sc2tog, sc in next 3 st] 3 times – 12 st.

Ss in next st then FO, leaving a length of yarn. Embroider eyes if you haven't used safety eyes. Stuff and use yarn to sew up the bottom in a line between the two feet.

Wings (make 2):

Ch 15, turn.

Row 1: Ss in 2^nd ch from hook, sc in next 6 ch, miss next ch, sc in next 6 ch, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: 2 sc in next st, sc in next 10 st, turn.

Row 3: Miss 1^st st, ss in next st, sc in next 3 st, miss next st, sc in next 4 st, turn.

Row 4: Miss 1^st st, ss in next st, sc in next 2 st, miss next st, sc in next 3 st, turn.

Row 5: Ch 2, sc in next st, ss in next 4 st, ch 2, ss in next st.

FO, leaving a length of yarn. Work this yarn through to the end of the wing and use it to sew the wing to the body.

 

Edit: here is the German version of this pattern:

Fledermaus

Übersetzt von Anett Tafelski.

Abkürzungen

LfM = Luftmasche

M = Masche

KM = Kettmasche

FM = feste Masche

ST = Stäbchen

Generelle Hinweise

Es wird so lange in Runden gearbeitet, bis etwas anderes in der Beschreibung steht, es werden auch keine Runden mit einer KM beendet, es sei denn es ist so beschrieben.. Es empfiehlt sich, die Runden mit einem Marker, einem andersfarbigen Faden oder eine Büroklammer zu markieren.

Um zu beginnen gibt es zwei Methoden: Den Magischen Ring oder 2 LfM anschlagen und in die erste LfM 6 FM einstechen.

Immer durch beide Maschenglieder arbeiten.

Das Material:

Wolle in den gewünschten Farben. Schwarzen Sticktwist für die Augen und eventuellen Mund oder Nase

1 Paar 7.5mm oder 6mm Sicherheitsaugen/Puppenaugen (Anmerkg. der Übersetzerin: Ich habe für die Augen einen französischen Knoten gemacht oder man stickt die Augen einfach auf. Kleine Knöpfe gehen auch.)

Etwas Füllwatte oder Wollreste zum Ausstopfen

Häkelnadel je nach Woll- oder Garnstärke

Stopfnadel, um die Flügel anzunähen und die Fledermaus zu schließen.

Nähnadel oder Puppennähnadel, um Augen, Mund, Nase aufzusticken.

Popcornstich/popcorn stitch

5 ST pop: Popcornstich für die Ohren. Nach dem 5ten Stäbchen des Popcorns wird die Häkelnadel aus der Schlaufe genommen, dabei die Schlaufe etwas größer ziehen, damit sie nicht wieder raus rutscht und man somit die Maschen verlieren würde. Jetzt wird die Häkelnadel in beide obere Maschenglieder des ersten Stäbchens des Popcorns eingestochen und die Schlaufe des 5ten Stäbchens mit einer KM durchgezogen.

Körper:

Beginn ist oben am Kopf

R 1: Magischer Ring mit 6 FM oder 2LfM mit 6FM in 1te LfM                                               (6)
R 2: [2 FM in die erste M, (1 FM und 5 ST pop in nächste M), 2 FM in nächste M] 2x          (12)

R 3: [2 FM in erste M, 1 FM in zweite M] 6x                                                                          (18)

R 4 - 6: (3 Runden) 1 FM in jede M                                                                                        (18)

Wenn Puppenaugen/Sicherheitsaugen verwendet werden, komme diese zwischen Runde 4 und 5;

Vier Maschen voneinander entfernt.

R 7: [immer 2 M mit FM zusammen abnehmen] 9x                                                                 (9)

R 8: [2 FM in nächste M, 1 FM in die nächsten 2 M] 3x                                                         (12)

R 9 - 10: (2 Runden) 1 FM in jede M                                                                                       (12)

R 11: [2 FM in nächste M, 1 FM in die nächsten 3 M] 3x                                                        (15)

R 12: 1 FM in jede M                                                                                                               (15)

R 13: 1 FM in die nächsten 8 M, [Fuß: KM in die nächste M, 4 LM, mit KM zurück in die selbe Masche stechen], 1 FM in die nächsten 5 M, [Fuß: KM in die nächste M, 4 LM, mit KM zurück in die selbe Masche stechen]                                                                                                                       (15)

15 M (Die erste KM, die den Fuß beginnt zählt als eine Masche, die zweite KM jedoch nicht!)

R 14: [2 M mit FM zusammen abnehmen, 1 FM in nächsten 3 M] 3x                                     (12)

KM in die nächste Masche, ein längeres Ende am Faden lassen und abschneiden, anschließend durchziehen. Jetzt die Augen austicken, wenn keine Puppenaugen verwendet wurden und wenn gewünscht den Rest des Gesichts aufnähen/aufsticken. Mit Füllwatte oder Wollresten füllen und dann die Fledermaus am Boden, zwischen den beiden Füßen zusammennähen oder zusammenhäkeln.

Flügel (2x):

Eine Kette mit 15 LF

Reihe 1: KM in 2te LF vom Haken aus gezählt, 1 FM in die nächsten 6 M, eine LM auslassen,

1 FM in die nächsten 6 M, 1 LM (Wendeluftmasche), wenden.

Reihe 2: 2 FM in die nächste M, 1 FM in die nächsten 10 M, wenden. (KEINE Wendeluftmasche)

Reihe 3: erste M auslassen, KM in die nächste M, FM in die nächsten 3 M, eine M auslassen, 1 FM in die nächsten 4 M, wenden. (KEINE Wendeluftmasche)

Reihe 4: erste M auslassen, KM in die nächste M, FM in die nächsten 2 M, eine M auslassen, 1 FM in die nächsten 3 M, wenden. (KEINE Wendeluftmasche)

Reihe 5: 2 SteigeLM, 1 FM in die nächste M, jeweils eine KM in die nächsten 4 M, 2 SteigeLM, KM in die nächste M.

Den Faden mit längerem Ende abschneiden und durch die letzte KM ziehen. Das Ende der Wolle durch das Häkelstück zum Flügelende arbeiten, damit der Faden zum Annähen genutzt werden kann.