Tiny Crochet Penguin - free pattern

Here's my next free Christmas pattern, to make a tiny crochet penguin, only about 3 cm/1.5" tall. This little fellow is perfect as a tree decoration, or you could use him in a Christmas scene or wreath, or add him to the wrapping on a present to make it extra special. He's made all in one go, with the wings crocheted as you go, so he's very quick and easy to create.

 

 

Abbreviations:

ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
ss = slipstitch
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)
dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)
tog = together
sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together
FO = fasten off

General instructions:

Work in rounds unless otherwise stated and do not join rounds unless told to. Use a stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer to ch 2, and work the appropriate number of sc into 1^st ch. If you work the sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight.

Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise indicated.

Special stitch instructions:

3 dc bob: bobble stitch. YOH (yarn over hook), insert hook into next stitch, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, *YOH, insert hook into same stitch, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, repeat once from*, YOH, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

You will need:

Small amounts of black and white yarn, double knitting or worsted weight.
Small amount of orange yarn for the beak.
A length of cotton yarn.
Small amount of stuffing.
3.5mm (E) hook.
Tapestry needle.

 

 

Pattern:

Start with white yarn.

Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1^st ch - 6 st.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around - 12 st.
Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times – 18 st.
Change to black yarn
Round 4: Sc in each st around - 18 st.
Round 5: Sc in next 6 st, [wing: ss in next st, ch 4, miss ch next to hook, sc in next 3 ch, ss back into original st], sc in next st, [3dc bob] 2 times, sc in next st, [wing: as before], sc in next 6 st – 18 st.
Push bobbles from the inside out, they will form the head.
Round 6: Sc in each st around - 18 st.
Round 7: [Sc2tog, sc in next st] 6 times – 12 st.
Round 8: Sc2tog 6 times – 6 st.
FO, leaving a length of yarn.

Embroider the eyes using three short lines of white yarn for each eye, then one or two even shorter lines of black in the centre. Make the beak by sewing a French knot with the orange yarn. To do this, take the yarn out between the eyes and, with the needle held close to this point, wrap the yarn three times around the needle. Sew back into the head very close to the point where the yarn came out. If you find this difficult, just sew two or three short lines in the orange yarn.

Using cotton yarn, sew a loop at the top of the head if you want to hang your penguin as a decoration. Finish stuffing and neatly sew up the hole at the back.

 

 

Here's Penguin just chilling with his friend Snowman, pattern coming soon!

 

 

Itty Bitty Bat - free amigurumi pattern

Well, Halloween is nearly upon us, so here is a tiny little bat pattern for you to have fun with. It's quick and simple to make and, depending on the yarn you use, will end up about 2” tall, with a wingspan of about 5”. The feet are actually small loops, so your bat can hang upside down from a small stick or length of yarn or cord. The loops are large enough to fit the crochet hook you are using through, so you can use that to pull yarn or cord through. You could make several bats and hang them up on a length of chained yarn as decorations, or just wear one as a cute Halloween necklace! If you want to hang your bat on something thicker, just do more chain stitches when you make the feet in round 13.

Abbreviations:

ch = chain

st = stitch or stitches

ss = slipstitch

sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)

dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)

tog = together

sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together

FLO = work in front loop only

FO = fasten off

General instructions:

Work in rounds unless otherwise stated and do not join rounds unless told to. Use a stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer (ch 2, work 6 sc into 1^st ch). If you work the 6 sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight.

Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise indicated.

You will need:

Small amount of black, purple or light and dark brown yarn, double knitting or worsted weight.

1 Pair of 7.5mm brown safety eyes, or 6mm black safety eyes, or yarn to embroider them.

Small amount of stuffing.

3.5mm (E) hook.

Tapestry needle.

Special stitch instructions:

5 dc pop: popcorn stitch for ears. Work 5 dc into 1 st, take hook out leaving loop, put hook through 1st dc & pull loop through.

Body:

Start at top of head.

Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1^st ch - 6 st.
Round 2: [2 sc in next st, (sc and 5 dc pop in next st), 2 sc in next st] 2 times – 12 st.

Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times - 18 st.

Round 4 - 6: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around – 18 st.

If using safety eyes, fit them now between rounds 4 and 5, four stitches apart.

Round 7: [Sc2tog] 9 times – 9 st.

Round 8: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 3 times – 12 st.

Round 9 - 10: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 12 st.

Round 11: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 3 times – 15 st.

Round 12: Sc in each st around – 15 st.

Round 13: Sc in next 8 st, [foot: ss in next st, ch 4, ss back into same st], sc in next 5 st, [foot: ss in next st, ch 4, ss back into same st] – 15 st (the first ss used to make each foot counts as a stitch, the second one doesn’t).

Round 14: [Sc2tog, sc in next 3 st] 3 times – 12 st.

Ss in next st then FO, leaving a length of yarn. Embroider eyes if you haven't used safety eyes. Stuff and use yarn to sew up the bottom in a line between the two feet.

Wings (make 2):

Ch 15, turn.

Row 1: Ss in 2^nd ch from hook, sc in next 6 ch, miss next ch, sc in next 6 ch, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: 2 sc in next st, sc in next 10 st, turn.

Row 3: Miss 1^st st, ss in next st, sc in next 3 st, miss next st, sc in next 4 st, turn.

Row 4: Miss 1^st st, ss in next st, sc in next 2 st, miss next st, sc in next 3 st, turn.

Row 5: Ch 2, sc in next st, ss in next 4 st, ch 2, ss in next st.

FO, leaving a length of yarn. Work this yarn through to the end of the wing and use it to sew the wing to the body.

 

Edit: here is the German version of this pattern:

Fledermaus

Übersetzt von Anett Tafelski.

Abkürzungen

LfM = Luftmasche

M = Masche

KM = Kettmasche

FM = feste Masche

ST = Stäbchen

Generelle Hinweise

Es wird so lange in Runden gearbeitet, bis etwas anderes in der Beschreibung steht, es werden auch keine Runden mit einer KM beendet, es sei denn es ist so beschrieben.. Es empfiehlt sich, die Runden mit einem Marker, einem andersfarbigen Faden oder eine Büroklammer zu markieren.

Um zu beginnen gibt es zwei Methoden: Den Magischen Ring oder 2 LfM anschlagen und in die erste LfM 6 FM einstechen.

Immer durch beide Maschenglieder arbeiten.

Das Material:

Wolle in den gewünschten Farben. Schwarzen Sticktwist für die Augen und eventuellen Mund oder Nase

1 Paar 7.5mm oder 6mm Sicherheitsaugen/Puppenaugen (Anmerkg. der Übersetzerin: Ich habe für die Augen einen französischen Knoten gemacht oder man stickt die Augen einfach auf. Kleine Knöpfe gehen auch.)

Etwas Füllwatte oder Wollreste zum Ausstopfen

Häkelnadel je nach Woll- oder Garnstärke

Stopfnadel, um die Flügel anzunähen und die Fledermaus zu schließen.

Nähnadel oder Puppennähnadel, um Augen, Mund, Nase aufzusticken.

Popcornstich/popcorn stitch

5 ST pop: Popcornstich für die Ohren. Nach dem 5ten Stäbchen des Popcorns wird die Häkelnadel aus der Schlaufe genommen, dabei die Schlaufe etwas größer ziehen, damit sie nicht wieder raus rutscht und man somit die Maschen verlieren würde. Jetzt wird die Häkelnadel in beide obere Maschenglieder des ersten Stäbchens des Popcorns eingestochen und die Schlaufe des 5ten Stäbchens mit einer KM durchgezogen.

Körper:

Beginn ist oben am Kopf

R 1: Magischer Ring mit 6 FM oder 2LfM mit 6FM in 1te LfM                                               (6)
R 2: [2 FM in die erste M, (1 FM und 5 ST pop in nächste M), 2 FM in nächste M] 2x          (12)

R 3: [2 FM in erste M, 1 FM in zweite M] 6x                                                                          (18)

R 4 - 6: (3 Runden) 1 FM in jede M                                                                                        (18)

Wenn Puppenaugen/Sicherheitsaugen verwendet werden, komme diese zwischen Runde 4 und 5;

Vier Maschen voneinander entfernt.

R 7: [immer 2 M mit FM zusammen abnehmen] 9x                                                                 (9)

R 8: [2 FM in nächste M, 1 FM in die nächsten 2 M] 3x                                                         (12)

R 9 - 10: (2 Runden) 1 FM in jede M                                                                                       (12)

R 11: [2 FM in nächste M, 1 FM in die nächsten 3 M] 3x                                                        (15)

R 12: 1 FM in jede M                                                                                                               (15)

R 13: 1 FM in die nächsten 8 M, [Fuß: KM in die nächste M, 4 LM, mit KM zurück in die selbe Masche stechen], 1 FM in die nächsten 5 M, [Fuß: KM in die nächste M, 4 LM, mit KM zurück in die selbe Masche stechen]                                                                                                                       (15)

15 M (Die erste KM, die den Fuß beginnt zählt als eine Masche, die zweite KM jedoch nicht!)

R 14: [2 M mit FM zusammen abnehmen, 1 FM in nächsten 3 M] 3x                                     (12)

KM in die nächste Masche, ein längeres Ende am Faden lassen und abschneiden, anschließend durchziehen. Jetzt die Augen austicken, wenn keine Puppenaugen verwendet wurden und wenn gewünscht den Rest des Gesichts aufnähen/aufsticken. Mit Füllwatte oder Wollresten füllen und dann die Fledermaus am Boden, zwischen den beiden Füßen zusammennähen oder zusammenhäkeln.

Flügel (2x):

Eine Kette mit 15 LF

Reihe 1: KM in 2te LF vom Haken aus gezählt, 1 FM in die nächsten 6 M, eine LM auslassen,

1 FM in die nächsten 6 M, 1 LM (Wendeluftmasche), wenden.

Reihe 2: 2 FM in die nächste M, 1 FM in die nächsten 10 M, wenden. (KEINE Wendeluftmasche)

Reihe 3: erste M auslassen, KM in die nächste M, FM in die nächsten 3 M, eine M auslassen, 1 FM in die nächsten 4 M, wenden. (KEINE Wendeluftmasche)

Reihe 4: erste M auslassen, KM in die nächste M, FM in die nächsten 2 M, eine M auslassen, 1 FM in die nächsten 3 M, wenden. (KEINE Wendeluftmasche)

Reihe 5: 2 SteigeLM, 1 FM in die nächste M, jeweils eine KM in die nächsten 4 M, 2 SteigeLM, KM in die nächste M.

Den Faden mit längerem Ende abschneiden und durch die letzte KM ziehen. Das Ende der Wolle durch das Häkelstück zum Flügelende arbeiten, damit der Faden zum Annähen genutzt werden kann.

Quick and Easy Easter Bunny - free pattern!

Whilst I was making the Little Teddies from the previous post, I realised it wouldn't take much turn them into little bunnies. They don't take very long to make, and you only need scraps of yarn, so they're perfect little extras to make for an Easter basket. I made a couple using pastel self-striping yarn, which seemed nice and spring-like, then I made one in brown yarn to be a little chocolate bunny.

 

 

 

 

Easter Bunny

 

This little bunny will end up about 4.5 cm/1.75" tall, not including ears, depending on the yarn you use.

 
Abbreviations:
ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
ss = slip stitch
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)
dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)
tog = together
sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together
pop = popcorn (see special stitch instructions)
FO = fasten off

General instructions:
Work in rounds unless otherwise stated and do not join rounds unless told to. Use a stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer (ch 2, work 6 sc into 1^st ch). The first ch is a slip knot so it will expand and if you work the 6 sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight.

Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise indicated.

 
Special stitch instructions:

3 dc pop: popcorn stitch for tail. Work 3 dc into 1 st, take hook out leaving loop, put hook through 1st dc & pull loop through.

(When changing colour for the tail work the sc before the change until there are two loops left on the hook. Then use the new colour for the final yarn over hook and pull through. When changing back to the main colour after doing a 3dc pop work the last dc of the popcorn until there are two loops left on the hook. Then use the main colour for the final yarn over hook and pull through. Finish making the popcorn st and you will have the main colour on your hook for the next stitch.)

4 dc pop: popcorn stitch for arms and legs. Work 4 dc into 1 st, take hook out leaving loop, put hook through 1st dc & pull loop through.

You will need:

Small amount of yarn, any colour you like, in double knitting or worsted weight.
Small amount of white or cream yarn for tail.
Small amount of black yarn (or cream and pink for chocolate bunny) for eyes and mouth.
Small amount of stuffing.
3.5mm (E) hook.
 

Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1^st ch - 6 st.

Round 2: [2 sc in next st, (sc and ss into next st, (ear) ch 6, sc into 2nd ch from hook, dc into next 3 ch, sc into next ch, ss back into original st), 2 sc in next st] 2 times - 12 st (the ss used to start the ear counts as a st, and you will work into it on the next round).
Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times – 18 st.
Round 4 - 6: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around - 18 st.
Round 7: [Sc2tog, sc in next st] 6 times – 12 st.
Round 8: [Sc2tog, sc in next 2 st] 3 times – 9 st.
Round 9: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 3 times – 12 st.
Round 10: Sc in next 5 st, 4dc pop, sc in next 4 st, 4dc pop, sc in next st - 12 st.
Round 11 - 12: Sc in each st around - 12 st.
Round 13: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 3 times – 15 st.
Round 14: Sc in next 4 st, change to tail colour yarn, 3dc pop, change back to main yarn, sc in next 4 st, 4dc pop, sc in next 3 st, 4dc pop, sc in next st - 15 st.
Round 15: [Sc2tog, sc in next 3 st] 3 times – 12 st.
Round 16: [Sc2tog] 6 times – 6 sc. FO, leaving a length of yarn.
 

Stuff head and body and embroider features. Use length of yarn to sew up hole at bottom, pulling yarn upwards through body to make sure the bottom is flat. You can also use this yarn to sew a stitch or two at the bottom of each ear to make sure they're pointing forwards.