Pumpkinhead Witch and Scarecrow Amigurumi Pattern

As it was heading towards autumn a couple of years ago, and people had started talking about Halloween online, I had an urge to make a witch with a pumpkin head. I thought I'd work on the pattern and have it ready in time for the spooky season. Of course, it took me much longer to make than I thought, so I played with the idea a bit and created a pumpkin-headed scarecrow as well. Then I shelved it, as it seemed a bit pointless bringing out a pattern like that in springtime. As autumn swung round again last year I suddenly remembered this pattern and got it ready, but I completely forgot to post about it here on my blog. I hope you're enjoying this insight into my organisational skills!

I tried a couple of techniques to form the ridges in the pumpkin, and in the end was very happy with what I came up with. The ridges are subtle, but I think they work. You could easily change elements of this pattern to make the clothes different, she doesn't have to be a witch, she can be a girl in a bright-coloured dress, and you can make the scarecrow in any colour of clothes that you want.

This pattern is available in my Etsy and Ravelry shops.

Super Quick Snake - Free Crochet Pattern

 

These little snakes are quick and easy to crochet, they don't need stuffing and there's hardly any sewing to finish them off. They naturally curl around your fingers and are great for anyone who loves snakes. They would also make cool and creepy decorations for Halloween.

You will need:

Small amounts of 2 different colours of DK weight yarn to work together - green and black, or green and yellow make nice snake colours mixed together (thinner or thicker yarn is fine, just use a thinner or thicker hook).

Small amount of red yarn for the mouth and eyes.

Tapestry needle.

4.5mm crochet hook.

Finished size: approximately 18 cm/7” long.

Abbreviations:

ch = chain

st = stitch or stitches

ss = slipstitch

dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)

hdc = half double crochet (US), half treble crochet (UK)

tog = together

dc2tog = decrease by working two dc together (see special stitch instructions)

FO = fasten off

General instructions:

This pattern is written using US crochet terms. For the UK equivalents, see abbreviations list.

The head is worked in rounds and is not joined. To start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer to work into the  1^st chain stitch, working over the tail of yarn and using that to pull the hole tight.

Special stitch instructions:

Dc2tog: YOH (yarn over hook), insert hook into next stitch, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, YOH, insert hook into next stitch, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, YOH, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Starting at the head, holding both strands of yarn together:

Round 1: ch 3, work 8 dc into 1^st ch - 8 st.

Round 2: dc2tog 4 times - 4 st.

Ch 21, sc into 2^nd ch from hook, sc into next ch, 2 hdc into next 18 ch.

Ss into next st on head, FO leaving some yarn.

Using the red yarn sew one eye with three short lines. Take the yarn out of the small hole where you started the head and make a tiny stitch to secure it. Make a loop for the tongue and secure it with another tiny stitch, then sew the other eye and secure the end of the yarn. Cut the loop of yarn to look like a forked tongue (if it frays put a tiny bit of glue on the strands). Use the ends of yarn from the snake’s body to sew up the back of its head and weave in any ends.

Little Monster Finger Puppets - free crochet pattern

Here's a little treat for Halloween that's quick and simple to crochet.

You will need:

Small amount of yarn for the body, any colour you like (I think green or purple looks good).

Small amount of red yarn for the mouth and eyes.

Small amount of black yarn for eyes.

Tapestry needle.

3.5mm crochet hook (US E hook).

Finished size: approximately 4 cm/1.5” tall.

Abbreviations:

ch = chain

st = stitch or stitches

ss = slipstitch

sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)

dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)

hdc = half double crochet (US), half treble crochet (UK)

BLO = back loop only

FLO = front loop only

tog = together

sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together

bob = bobble (see special stitch instructions)

FO = fasten off

General instructions:
This pattern is written using US crochet terms. For the UK equivalents, see abbreviations list.

Work in rounds unless otherwise stated and do not join rounds unless told to. Use a stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer (ch2, work 6 sc into 1^st ch). If you work the 6 sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight. You can find a detailed tutorial on how to do this here on my blog.

Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise indicated.

Special stitch instructions:

3 dc bob: bobble stitch for nose. YOH (yarn over hook), insert hook into next stitch, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, *YOH, insert hook into same stitch, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, repeat once from*, YOH, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Start with yarn for body.

Round 1: ch 2, work 6 sc into 1^st ch - 6 st.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around - 12 st.
Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 3 times – 15 st.

Round 4: sc in each st around - 15 st.

Round 5: sc in next 6 st, 3 dc bob in next st, sc in next 8 st – 15 st.

Round 6: sc in next 4 st, [FLO: sc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 st, 2 hdc in next st, sc in next st], sc in next 5 st – 17 st.

Round 7: sc in next 4 st, change to red yarn, [work in back loops remaining from working in front loops in previous round: hdc in next 6 st], change to body yarn, sc in next 5 st – 15 st.

Cut red yarn, leaving a length to sew the eyes. Sew 4-5 lines vertically over rounds 3 and 4 on either side of the nose. Use black yarn to sew a dot in the centre of each eye. Secure ends of yarn.

Round 8: sc in next 5 st, [FLO: sc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, sc in next st], sc in next 5 st – 17 st.

Round 9: sc in next 5 st, [work in back loops remaining from working in front loops in previous round: hdc in next 5 st], sc in next 5 st – 15 st.

Round 10: sc in next 3 st, [arm: ss into next st, ch 7, turn, ss into next 2 ch, (ch 3, turn, ss in next 2 ch) 2 times, ss into next 4 ch, ss back into original st on round], sc in next 7 st, [arm], sc in next 3 st - 15 st.

Round 11: sc in each st around (work into the first ss used to make each arm, not the final ss) - 15 st.

Round 12: sc in each st around - 15 st.

Ss in next st, FO and weave in end of yarn.

Stick it on your finger and have some monstrous fun!

Little Pumpkin Mice - free amigurumi pattern

I made Little Kissing Mice for Valentine's Day and a Little Christmas Mouse for (you've guessed it!) Christmas, so now that autumn is here I thought it would be fun to make some Pumpkin Mice.

I’m not sure if these mice have eaten their way through tiny pumpkins or if they’re wearing little costumes but either way they’re cute, and they make perfect decorations for autumn and Halloween.

Abbreviations:

ch = chain

st = stitch or stitches

ss = slipstitch

sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)

dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)

tog = together

sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together

FLO = work in front loop only

FO = fasten off

Approximate size: 5cm/2" long without tail.

General instructions:

Work in rounds unless otherwise stated and do not join rounds unless told to. Use a stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer to ch 2, and work the appropriate number of sc into 1^st ch. If you work the sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight.

When changing from one colour of yarn to another work the stitch before the change until there are two loops left on the hook. Then use the new colour for the final yarn over hook and pull through.

Stuff as you go along.

Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise indicated.

You will need:

Small amounts of yarn in a natural colour for the head and tail, and orange for the pumpkin, double knitting or worsted weight.

Small amounts of black yarn to embroider eyes.

Small amount of stuffing.

3.5mm (E) hook.

Tapestry needle.

Start with natural colour yarn.

Round 1: Ch 2, work 4 sc into 1^st ch - 4 st.
Round 2: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 2 times - 6 st.

Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 2 times - 8 st.

Round 4: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 2 times - 10 st.

Round 5: Sc in each st around – 10 st.

Round 6: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st] 2 times - 12 st.

Round 7: Sc in next 6 st, [ear, in FLO of next st: ss, ch 2, 5 dc, ch 2, ss], sc in next 3 st, [ear as before], sc in next st – 12 st (counting each ear as one st).

Round 8: Sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st, sc in back loop behind ear, sc in next st, sc2tog, sc in back loop behind ear, sc in next st – 12 st.

Change to orange yarn.

Round 9: [2 sc in next st] 6 times, sc in next 6 st – 18 st.

Round 10: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st] 3 times – 21 st.

Round 11 - 16: (6 rounds) Sc in each st around – 21 st.

Round 17: [Sc2tog, sc in next 5 st] 2 times, sc2tog, sc in next 3 st, change to natural colour yarn, [tail: ss in next st, ch 20, miss ch next to hook, ss 19, ss back into original st and change back to orange yarn], sc in next st – 18 st.

Round 18: Sc2tog 2 times, sc in next 6 st, sc2tog 4 times – 12 st.

Round 19: Sc2tog 6 times – 6 st.

FO, leaving a length of yarn about 15”/40 cm long. Finish stuffing and use black yarn to sew eyes. Using the length of yarn, sew up the bottom of the mouse neatly. Then sew six lines evenly spaced around the pumpkin, from the neck down to the bottom (the bottom point shouldn’t be the hole you sewed up, just a little in front of that will be better and will make the mouse sit up properly). Pull each line through tightly so your mouse has a flat base.

Itty Bitty Bat - German translation

I'm sure some of you are starting to think about Halloween already, so if you want to crochet something cute for the occasion, why not check out my Itty Bitty Bat pattern (see the list of free patterns on the right for the link), which now includes a version in German, courtesy of Annet Tafelski.

Itty Bitty Bat - free amigurumi pattern

Well, Halloween is nearly upon us, so here is a tiny little bat pattern for you to have fun with. It's quick and simple to make and, depending on the yarn you use, will end up about 2” tall, with a wingspan of about 5”. The feet are actually small loops, so your bat can hang upside down from a small stick or length of yarn or cord. The loops are large enough to fit the crochet hook you are using through, so you can use that to pull yarn or cord through. You could make several bats and hang them up on a length of chained yarn as decorations, or just wear one as a cute Halloween necklace! If you want to hang your bat on something thicker, just do more chain stitches when you make the feet in round 13.

Abbreviations:

ch = chain

st = stitch or stitches

ss = slipstitch

sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)

dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)

tog = together

sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together

FLO = work in front loop only

FO = fasten off

General instructions:

Work in rounds unless otherwise stated and do not join rounds unless told to. Use a stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer (ch 2, work 6 sc into 1^st ch). If you work the 6 sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight.

Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise indicated.

You will need:

Small amount of black, purple or light and dark brown yarn, double knitting or worsted weight.

1 Pair of 7.5mm brown safety eyes, or 6mm black safety eyes, or yarn to embroider them.

Small amount of stuffing.

3.5mm (E) hook.

Tapestry needle.

Special stitch instructions:

5 dc pop: popcorn stitch for ears. Work 5 dc into 1 st, take hook out leaving loop, put hook through 1st dc & pull loop through.

Body:

Start at top of head.

Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1^st ch - 6 st.
Round 2: [2 sc in next st, (sc and 5 dc pop in next st), 2 sc in next st] 2 times – 12 st.

Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times - 18 st.

Round 4 - 6: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around – 18 st.

If using safety eyes, fit them now between rounds 4 and 5, four stitches apart.

Round 7: [Sc2tog] 9 times – 9 st.

Round 8: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 3 times – 12 st.

Round 9 - 10: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 12 st.

Round 11: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 3 times – 15 st.

Round 12: Sc in each st around – 15 st.

Round 13: Sc in next 8 st, [foot: ss in next st, ch 4, ss back into same st], sc in next 5 st, [foot: ss in next st, ch 4, ss back into same st] – 15 st (the first ss used to make each foot counts as a stitch, the second one doesn’t).

Round 14: [Sc2tog, sc in next 3 st] 3 times – 12 st.

Ss in next st then FO, leaving a length of yarn. Embroider eyes if you haven't used safety eyes. Stuff and use yarn to sew up the bottom in a line between the two feet.

Wings (make 2):

Ch 15, turn.

Row 1: Ss in 2^nd ch from hook, sc in next 6 ch, miss next ch, sc in next 6 ch, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: 2 sc in next st, sc in next 10 st, turn.

Row 3: Miss 1^st st, ss in next st, sc in next 3 st, miss next st, sc in next 4 st, turn.

Row 4: Miss 1^st st, ss in next st, sc in next 2 st, miss next st, sc in next 3 st, turn.

Row 5: Ch 2, sc in next st, ss in next 4 st, ch 2, ss in next st.

FO, leaving a length of yarn. Work this yarn through to the end of the wing and use it to sew the wing to the body.

 

Edit: here is the German version of this pattern:

Fledermaus

Übersetzt von Anett Tafelski.

Abkürzungen

LfM = Luftmasche

M = Masche

KM = Kettmasche

FM = feste Masche

ST = Stäbchen

Generelle Hinweise

Es wird so lange in Runden gearbeitet, bis etwas anderes in der Beschreibung steht, es werden auch keine Runden mit einer KM beendet, es sei denn es ist so beschrieben.. Es empfiehlt sich, die Runden mit einem Marker, einem andersfarbigen Faden oder eine Büroklammer zu markieren.

Um zu beginnen gibt es zwei Methoden: Den Magischen Ring oder 2 LfM anschlagen und in die erste LfM 6 FM einstechen.

Immer durch beide Maschenglieder arbeiten.

Das Material:

Wolle in den gewünschten Farben. Schwarzen Sticktwist für die Augen und eventuellen Mund oder Nase

1 Paar 7.5mm oder 6mm Sicherheitsaugen/Puppenaugen (Anmerkg. der Übersetzerin: Ich habe für die Augen einen französischen Knoten gemacht oder man stickt die Augen einfach auf. Kleine Knöpfe gehen auch.)

Etwas Füllwatte oder Wollreste zum Ausstopfen

Häkelnadel je nach Woll- oder Garnstärke

Stopfnadel, um die Flügel anzunähen und die Fledermaus zu schließen.

Nähnadel oder Puppennähnadel, um Augen, Mund, Nase aufzusticken.

Popcornstich/popcorn stitch

5 ST pop: Popcornstich für die Ohren. Nach dem 5ten Stäbchen des Popcorns wird die Häkelnadel aus der Schlaufe genommen, dabei die Schlaufe etwas größer ziehen, damit sie nicht wieder raus rutscht und man somit die Maschen verlieren würde. Jetzt wird die Häkelnadel in beide obere Maschenglieder des ersten Stäbchens des Popcorns eingestochen und die Schlaufe des 5ten Stäbchens mit einer KM durchgezogen.

Körper:

Beginn ist oben am Kopf

R 1: Magischer Ring mit 6 FM oder 2LfM mit 6FM in 1te LfM                                               (6)
R 2: [2 FM in die erste M, (1 FM und 5 ST pop in nächste M), 2 FM in nächste M] 2x          (12)

R 3: [2 FM in erste M, 1 FM in zweite M] 6x                                                                          (18)

R 4 - 6: (3 Runden) 1 FM in jede M                                                                                        (18)

Wenn Puppenaugen/Sicherheitsaugen verwendet werden, komme diese zwischen Runde 4 und 5;

Vier Maschen voneinander entfernt.

R 7: [immer 2 M mit FM zusammen abnehmen] 9x                                                                 (9)

R 8: [2 FM in nächste M, 1 FM in die nächsten 2 M] 3x                                                         (12)

R 9 - 10: (2 Runden) 1 FM in jede M                                                                                       (12)

R 11: [2 FM in nächste M, 1 FM in die nächsten 3 M] 3x                                                        (15)

R 12: 1 FM in jede M                                                                                                               (15)

R 13: 1 FM in die nächsten 8 M, [Fuß: KM in die nächste M, 4 LM, mit KM zurück in die selbe Masche stechen], 1 FM in die nächsten 5 M, [Fuß: KM in die nächste M, 4 LM, mit KM zurück in die selbe Masche stechen]                                                                                                                       (15)

15 M (Die erste KM, die den Fuß beginnt zählt als eine Masche, die zweite KM jedoch nicht!)

R 14: [2 M mit FM zusammen abnehmen, 1 FM in nächsten 3 M] 3x                                     (12)

KM in die nächste Masche, ein längeres Ende am Faden lassen und abschneiden, anschließend durchziehen. Jetzt die Augen austicken, wenn keine Puppenaugen verwendet wurden und wenn gewünscht den Rest des Gesichts aufnähen/aufsticken. Mit Füllwatte oder Wollresten füllen und dann die Fledermaus am Boden, zwischen den beiden Füßen zusammennähen oder zusammenhäkeln.

Flügel (2x):

Eine Kette mit 15 LF

Reihe 1: KM in 2te LF vom Haken aus gezählt, 1 FM in die nächsten 6 M, eine LM auslassen,

1 FM in die nächsten 6 M, 1 LM (Wendeluftmasche), wenden.

Reihe 2: 2 FM in die nächste M, 1 FM in die nächsten 10 M, wenden. (KEINE Wendeluftmasche)

Reihe 3: erste M auslassen, KM in die nächste M, FM in die nächsten 3 M, eine M auslassen, 1 FM in die nächsten 4 M, wenden. (KEINE Wendeluftmasche)

Reihe 4: erste M auslassen, KM in die nächste M, FM in die nächsten 2 M, eine M auslassen, 1 FM in die nächsten 3 M, wenden. (KEINE Wendeluftmasche)

Reihe 5: 2 SteigeLM, 1 FM in die nächste M, jeweils eine KM in die nächsten 4 M, 2 SteigeLM, KM in die nächste M.

Den Faden mit längerem Ende abschneiden und durch die letzte KM ziehen. Das Ende der Wolle durch das Häkelstück zum Flügelende arbeiten, damit der Faden zum Annähen genutzt werden kann.